e To be quiet honest folks, I have no idea what to fill you in on. Life in Paraguay is just wonderful right now. The days are getting shorter, but also cooler. Relationships with neighbors, students, church members and host families continue to build. The hair on my head continues to grow, just as waistbands shrink and expand with every additional ¨chipa¨ (bagelish bread made from corn flour and cheese) that´s eaten. You only live in Paraguay once, right?!

As April comes to a close, it´s been a busy month for Craig and I. Well, the first 11 days were lazily spent on a group vacation-Visa renewal time in Buenos Aires, Argentina, and then to Montevideo, Uruguay. Once we returned, all our free time from teaching, was spent in the Mennonite World Conference offices entering registration forms from the Carribean, Central and South America. The deadline for Paraguay was March 31, unfortunantely the day we all left for vacation. We came back to see hundreds of registrations waiting for us to enter. In the month of April alone, they´ve told us that we registered close to 2,000 people for the conference. It´s coming up folks! :) As of right now the running total is around 4,000 people in total, 1,500 being from Paraguay. They hope, and are expecting this number to continue to rise in the near future. (We´re getting to the point where there´s not much else BUT a near future.)

Feel free to check out our new pictures on blogger, and rest assured that we are still alive.

The Expectation of Service

There are many things that I don't remember about my wedding day. It was so full of activities, special people, and the pressure of the big day! But one thing that I do remember in our meditation by Todd Martin, was the challenge to "out serve each other". Don't let the other person get away with doing more acts of service for you. Our first year of marriage was a piece of cake, what wouldn't I do for my honey? The second year was still sweet, but a little bit more down to earth. Now, our third year we're having to be much more creative.


Ever since a little girl, I've had this notion that just because I'm female doesn't mean I am placed on earth to serve men and have babies. If there is one thing that can get me going quicker than a... (insert analogy) it's for someone to tell me, "Because you're a female, you should do this." I knew that before coming to Paraguay I would face some of this mind set, but honestly, how do you prepare for it? And yet after nearly six months I still cringe everyday when I hear Berta telling me, "Krista, serve your husband", "Krista, wash the dishes for your husband".

I want to be the first person to say, I have no problems scooping up food for Craig, or even washing his dishes. It is special to serve a person out of choice and love. It's just when people tell me to do it, I want to run away and scream! It turns me bitter to any and all forms of service to my husband. Normally, an act of service like washing his plate, or serving soup for him would be just that, an act of service. But when it's an expectation to do so, is it still service?
So this is what we have. I have the expectation that I am to serve my husband, while he is told to sit at the table and wait for the food. If Craig in turn tries to serve me, or wash the dishes, he is corrected, and he's even experienced the slap of the hand for such an outragous venture. So the ever so simple terms of service that we practiced before are now stripped away, leaving us with only a challege of what to do next. Without denied access to the kitchen, zero budget, and the cultural expectations...what do we do now Todd? How do you out serve your spouse under these terms? It really has been something that we've both been struggling with.

Slowly but surely we're both getting past these cultural terms. After much encouragment from Craig, I've pushed it aside as much as I can. I'm trying to change my attitude with the whole situation. We're starting new service adventures like, walking with each other to the bus stop, attending each other's classes, carrying the heavier bookbag, making the bed, or helping with laundry --wringing out pants by hand is a bugger!

Everything in life is there to build your charater, right Dad? And I bet God is having a good laugh watching me squirm under those words, "Craig sit down. Krista, serve your husband".

Everything in life we can learn from, but honestly, does it have to be this? I will admit that it will be interesting to see how this experience of "forced service" will influence our marriage, and culture of service.

I'd love to hear some feedback on this one. krista.craig@gmail.com

A Quick Update!

We've had a little break from the updates, but we're still kickin'! Things are still going very well for us. Although many of the numbers are down for our classes now that summer break has finished and school has started up again, we're enjoying the classes when we teach. With our free time, and there really is a heafty amount, we're picking up more students to teach one on one which has been a lot of fun to see them learn at their own pace, but also to build more of a relationship with them.

We have also started to pick up a few more hours at the Mennonite World Conference offices, helping with registration for the Carribean, and Central/South America. It has been a lot of fun to see so many names come in from so many different countries. It's also been fun to see other people's names that are doing service in these countries, registering.--From people I went to college with, to other Radical Journey groups! The deadline for Paraguayan registration is March 31, so we're expecting to have a decent influx of forms come in around, and after this date.

We are finally starting to get some relief from the heat. The sun is still strong during the days, but at least at night it cools off to a nice sleeping temperature, and our mattress is no longer constantly hot! There are still a few green mangoes hanging on the trees, but I've been told, it's very late in the season to see this. The fruits that are now in season are starfruit, guava, avocado, and soon will be grapefruit, and oranges. Pineapples, and bananas are basically ripe whenever there's heat, which is most of the year in Paraguay!

Like I said, schools are now back in session, and that goes for CEMTA (the Mennonite seminary) as well. They have started an English class on campus with one of our team members, Scott, teaching it. Although he was excited for the opportunity to teach, so were the students. 42 students, all at different levels of speaking, flocked to the first class. This not only made Scott a bit more than nervous, but also gave him no other choice but to divide the class. Craig will now be teaching this upcoming Wednesday at CEMTA to help lighten the load. I think it will be a great experience for a number of different reasons for both Craig and Scott.

Holy week is coming up, and all of the schools have cancelled their classes. During this week also falls our three month visa renewal, so we're taking the opportunity again to see a little bit more of the world. This time we're traveling together as a group, first to Buenos Aires, Argentina, and then taking a boat across to Uruguay. (Surprisingly, it's cheaper that way.) We're all looking forward to the trip and some time together.

Craig and I also want to say thank you for all of the cards, and packages. Without a doubt we feel supported and loved even from so far away. Thanks!

A Day of Instruction...

  While posting another thrilling History of Paraguay post (some university will publish it... you watch), I realized that much to my chagrin, there is nothing on here about what we do here or how it's going.  I'll give you a quick run-down.

   It's Tuesday morning, and the cheap cell phone Krista and I bought starts an obnoxious beeping to inform us that it's 6:30.  After counting my new mosquito bites, I shower quickly and sit down to eat breakfast quickly with Krista and Berta before I have to be out the door by 7:00 or 7:15.

  It really doesn't matter exactly what time I leave.  This is because it will always be 30 seconds too late and the Line 18 bus will pass by while I'm waiting to cross the road.  Then I wait 15-30 minutes for the next bus 18 to come and whisk me away to the Mennonite World Conference headquarters about 30-45 minutes away.

  Krista and I have started volunteering there lately with our free time in the mornings entering registrations into the database.  It's a decent excuse to sit somewhere for three or four hours and listen to NPR on the internet.

  On Tuesdays and Thursdays, I make sure that some combination of buses and walking gets me to Emanuel Mennonite Church by 3:00pm.  The conference offices of CONEMPAR (the Spanish-speaking Mennonite conference) are behind the church and that's where class #1 takes place with Dario.  He's the conference treasurer, and requested an individual conversation class to keep up his nearly fluent English skills.

  At 4:00 my first class of beginning English students arrive.  Lisa, Antonio, Jemima, Dámaris, Joanna, Graciela, and Yolanda come through the door with a "Hello teacher!", which is something that I've gathered everyone in Paraguay learned in high school English.

  I generally run class like this:  We spend 5 to 10 minutes talking about what day it is, what day yesterday was, next month, last month, etc., and about the weather.  Then, 15 minutes is devoted to grammar exercises.  After the grammar, I try and wake them up by having a 15 minute section of responding to commands.  The guys in the picture below (from the class at my other church) are going up the stairs and down the stairs.  We spend the remainder of the one hour class working at vocabulary through a Bible reading or sometimes songs. 

  This process gets repeated at Emanuel at 6:30, and at Amistad Mennonite Church on Mondays and Fridays at 6:30 pm.  Generally, the students who are taking time to study and practice outside of class are improving very quickly.  

  After class, I typically take two buses home because of the dark, and end up back at home for supper at 9:00.  All the time spent on buses (at least 2 hours a day) has been a good opportunity to keep up with reading.  I just finished John Grisham's "Runaway Jury" in spanish, with bus tickets as my bookmarks.  

  Curious about something else that we do?  Shoot me an e-mail and I'll tell you about it.

 

HISTORY OF PARAGUAY, PART III: No, Oligarchy is not a Butterfly

  

After about a hundred years of galavanting across the continent, the Spaniards finally managed to firmly entrench their system of governance throughout most of South America.  Now, I know the title was slightly more specific, but this portion of the History of Paraguay could really be expanded to include the history of the whole continent, even Portuguese Brazil.  You see, to overly generalize as this thread has been good at doing, the Spanish really came to the "New World" for three reasons.  In no particular order, they were:

-God

-Gold

-Glory

  Taken in reverse order, many a young explorer was led to step on a ship outbound from Europe in order to make himself famous back home.  Be the next Cortez, Pizarro, or Coronado.  (If you don't know those three, don't worry, they aparently didn't do their job of becoming well known well enough.  Just know they were famous at the time.)  They were driven on by the stories of riches and particulary, cities made out of gold.  And, in order to legitimize their ventures further, a lot of ships drug along Catholic missionaries.

  When the Spaniards set up their colonies in South America, they imposed the then current medieval feudal system on their newly declared native citizens.  Known as encomiendas, this system "employed" (let's be honest: enslaved) native South Americans on farms, in mines, and in other domestic labors in exchange for the protection and the "Christian Civilization" that the Spaniards provided.  It also VERY IMPORTANTLY, set the precendent for the Latin American geo-political reality of oligarchy.  This word just means that 10% of the people own 90% of everything, and everyone else has to deal with it.  Trust me, this will come back to haunt our discussion more than once before I manage to catch us up to 2009.  

  The colonists were required to instruct the idigenous population in Catholicism.  However, aside from this religous favor, life on the encomienda was generally the opposite of heaven.  Stories of oppression from the sugar plantations of the Caribbean or the gold and silver mines of Peru are not really for your child right before bed.  But Paraguay's idigenous population managed to escape the harsh treatment that was found elsewhere in South America.  Why?

  In short, there was nothing in Paraguay.  Really.  No sugar plantations, no gold or silver mines.  But like I've said before, there were women, and the fact that the Spanish married more than one of them often enough meant that if they oppressed anyone, it would most-likely be their mother or father-in-law.  Now, the book I'm using calls the encomiendas that existed in Paraguay "benign" because of this.  I suppose the term is relative.  Being enslaved and forced to work so that your colonial master can be rich, own the land, and eat all he wants while you live on scraps is probably "benign" when compared to having your hands chopped of for not harvesting sugar fast enough.  But I'm still not sure if the worker in the first setting would refer to his lot as "benign".        

  So once again, Paraguay was different from the rest of the Spanish New World.  Racial integration, "benign" feudal system.  Two more things to note on this theme before I close up shop.  In the rest of Central and South America, the discriminatory policies of the Spanish Crown applied also to the racially mixed offspring of the colonists and their new found friends.  However, in Paraguay, everyone ignored these laws and treated Paraguayans of mixed origin as though they had the same rights as purely European Spaniards.  Secondly, reliant on this racially progressive outlook, Paraguay appointed its first "mestizo" govenor in 1602.  Things were looking good for interracial cooperation.  Could it be derailed?  Find it out in, HISTORY OF PARAGUAY, PART IV: Blame the Jesuits.

A Note About Demons:

  Before coming to South America, I had spent a good amount of time around religious functions in the U.S. and even studied at the Elkhart seminary.  However, I must admit that though I had heard talk at these functions of demons sent to plague good Christians and entice others into all other sorts of diabolical acts, I was still highly skeptical of their existence.

  No longer.  I have been in Paraguay for four months now, and one thing I can say for certain is that demons do exist.  In fact, the remains of one of thier ilk is splattered on the wall in front of my computer as I write to you.  Now, I am trying not to diminish the other-worldy aspect of these encounters by talking so crudely about one's demise, but the imps do seem to be somewhat more common here.  

  For example, it is a rather weekly occurence to kill upwards of twelve to fifteen demons in the shower.   (I was surprised to learn that they seem to like humid places where they can breed others... I had always assumed that fire was involved.)  You may think me brave, but I still need to bathe, so one of us has to go.

  If you have never seen a demon, let me describe its common form and habit.  It has wings that make an irritating high pitched sound like an over-worked food processer when it's trying to whisper sweet subversive nothings in your ear.  It is nearly impossible for a novice to determine from whence it came and wherefore it is going.  That means it's fast.  It also would like nothing more than to suck a mortal human's blood.

  The news media here has even picked up on the existence of these other-worldy forms, commenting the other night that they carry something called Dengue Fever.  I can only assume that this is some sort of curse that hampers the physical and mental faculties of the victim.  The expert on the program suggested burning an incense to ward off the evil presence, but Krista and I have yet to see any demons really driven off by Raid Country Fresh.

The Relativity of Life

I never really thought I'd have a rooster wake me up in the morning, and then I moved to Paraguay. The rooster and it's adolescent sidekick start at about 6am with their first round of wake-ups. The full call first by the grown, followed by a pathetic attempt by the younger. Think 14 year old boy voice meets chicken and you'll get close enough to the sound we hear every morning. Their calls drift in our chicken wire screened in window, that opens up from our bedroom into the walled in backyard. Morning has come.

Breakfast is normally bread with a jam, a small sandwich, or yogurt. But whatever we eat, we always have the same thing to drink. "Cocido", a hot tea made fresh from the dried leaves every morning with a touch of sugar and milk. Perfect in my book. Berta always says, "if cocido was beer, you'd be drunk all day long!" And then she does this great imitation of a drunk stumbling around on the streets, it's one of my favorite of her many imitations.

Slowly but surely, Berta is becoming more and more acustom to us washing the plates. Yes, the spickets are a little different here. We have a pvc pipe that runs straight to the sink with a little plastic turn top. No option for hot water, but I've yet to see a dirty plate, nor have I gotten sick from any of the little germs looming around on the dishes.

Showering time is quick, not because we don't have good access to water, but because it's cold! Most of the time a cold shower is welcomed, however, we do have cool mornings, and wet dreary days were it is not such a blessing. However, there have been very few times that we have not been able to shower.

A few days ago Berta went to visit a old friend of hers that she hadn't seen in a long time. When she returned she said she wanted to cry. The house was bursting at the seams with 7 people living in a tiny 2 room home. The house was filthy, with no running water, nor electricity. Berta said for their meal today they had a mixture of toasted flour, with a little water and sugar added. They had hardly enough to get by, and too much shame to go out of the house. It was then she told me, "We are NOT poor. It may seem that way sometimes, but we are not."

It was a friend of mine in college that told me, "life is a constant state of relativity." And it's true. Craig and I are comfortable where we are. Yes, things are different than at home, but we are not poor here. Poor is relative. We look at Donald Trump and say we don't have enough in middle class Goshen, IN. We look at Goshen, IN and say we are poor in Paraguay, but there is always someone, somewhere surviving on less. The challenge presents itself then, how can I live simply, so that others may simply live?